Sunday, March 30, 2008

Around the World: Family travel in Myanmar

By jackie Burrell

THE TRAVELERS: Parent educator Ksenija Soster Olmer, civil engineer Miroslav Olmer and their daughters, Solana, 18, and Naya, 15.

THE TREK IN A SEC: This Orinda family spent two weeks traveling in Myanmar (Burma), wandering through gorgeous pagodas, floating gardens, colorful tribal markets and deserted beaches. But the high point of the trip was visiting orphanages in the highlands for what would become the family's philanthropic mission, the Hungry Duckling Project.

BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY HOTEL: The Amazing Nyaung Shwe near Inle Lake. "You have to cross a small bridge over a moat to the small hotel's lobby," says Ksenija. "The rooms are simple, but bright with new wooden furniture and western private bathrooms. Every night two beautiful ladies come in, spray under the beds for mosquitoes and literally tuck you in with the crisp white bedding. In the morning you are awoken by the bells and monk prayers from a monastery around the corner."

MOST MEMORABLE MEAL: Most food is very simple with lots of rice, but the Olmers' favorite treat was the doughy breakfast sweet, pronounced Ee-chaq-we — a cross between a doughnut and a churro — fried up by street vendors at 6 a.m. for about 5 cents.

COOLEST SIGHTSEEING: "There is much to see in Myanmar," says Ksenija, "but the best part is there are so few tourists that you will have it all to yourself. Shwedagon Pagoda in Rangoon is absolutely incredible. In the late afternoon as the rays of the setting sun deepen the gleam of the golden spires, stroll barefoot around the marble courtyard, one with the local crowd of novice monks in orange robes, nuns in pink, whole extended families. As the sun sets, descend the long staircase and, as you emerge from the covered walkway, look back to see literally thousands upon thousands of birds pouring out of the pagoda like a river in the sky. The spectacle goes on for 40 minutes every evening with the birds returning at dawn."

"The highlight of our trip was a visit to two orphanages, about an hour from the lake, where we were able to bring in school supplies and toiletries for each child, interact with the children and purchase many necessities that will improve their daily life and their future," says Ksenija. "It was a transforming experience for our whole family."

TRAVEL TIPS:

1. Hire an inexpensive car with driver. There are no rental cars available, and you really wouldn't want to try to attempt to drive on the notoriously disintegrating roads.

2. Make sure your tetanus shots are current, and consider also getting hepatitis, yellow fever and cholera shots, and if you're traveling in the hot months, anti-malarial medication.

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